A man possessed

Wii golf looks to be my latest obsession. We went to the neighbors’ for dinner on Saturday, and I played a few rounds with O. It was strangely addictive, requiring just enough skill to hold my interest and keep me playing. On Sunday afternoon I played with D at home, and later that night after he was in bed, compelled to keep at it and better my score. I can see the attraction. I can also spy already the end of this bender in the fact that it’s the same nine holes played over and over. Lucky for me.

Wii golf thus joins the long list of enthusiasms that have taken complete possession of me at one time or another, flings brief and intense that typically run their course in a week or a couple of weeks before I lose interest and drop them for a year or two, when I may just as typically be bitten afresh and go through the whole thing again.

Thus have I accumulated piles of newspaper sections, each one folded to the day’s Sudoku puzzle, so that I’d be sure to have one to solve tomorrow and the day after. Or gone on extended binges of Solitaire and online chess. I can say the same too for spates of watching movies or baseball or playoff basketball or the soccer World Cup. For a month every four years that tournament becomes my favorite thing, soaking up most of my waking attention. When it’s over, it’s over. I may miss it for a couple of days, but then, in spite of my intentions, I forget about soccer entirely for four years until the Cup returns and grabs my attention again.

The same pattern fits my impulse to cook. For long stretches I don’t just cook, I inhabit cooking—studying recipes, watching cooking shows, trying new techniques and ingredients, cooking meal after meal, cooking like a fiend.

It may seem dilettantish, scattered. But these passing enthusiasms, storms or waves of interest, have been a source of immense pleasure in my life, of consuming interest, and I am thankful for them. The abiding mystery is that I don’t control them. The wind bloweth where it listeth.

The return of Fall (food)

In unconscious synchrony with the autumnal equinox yesterday, I made a Sunday pot of pasta e ceci, the original fall soul food.

Eccola: A healthy dose of garlic, sauteed to pale golden in plenty of olive oil. Add two cans garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed. Sautee for five minutes, stirring occasionally, then add three large handfuls of uncooked ditalini, 2-3 bay leaves, and enough water or chicken broth to cover. Stir as necessary, adding water or broth as it is absorbed and adjusting flame accordingly to keep the pot simmering until the pasta is tender. Let enough of the liquid be absorbed al fine so that the result is moist and creamy, but not soupy. Serve in chunky bowls. At table, sprinkle liberally with freshly grated cheese and red pepper flakes. (Even better, drizzle with hot oil.) Mangia!

It’s a hearty meal in itself, of course, but we paired it with a store-bought rotisserie chicken and a nice green salad. A strong unfussy red wine is mandatory.

Too elite to eat meat?

May 8

This locavore business that I’m reading about in the New York Times: Is it just the latest fad? The latest someone wanting to make me feel guilty? That’s a Neanderthal response, I know, but why is this stuff always being pushed by people who have it all? The latest thing to be into. Cause of the week. Forget vegan. Or maybe on top of vegan.

In truth I have long had an affinity for eating local, within reason, as my father would say. I detest the idea of eating apples imported from Washington or New Zealand. But to get so religious and strict about it? Devotees of the “100-mile diet” eat nothing grown further than 100 miles from their homes. That means they deny themselves coffee, tea, flour, wine, in addition to most fruits and a good number of vegetables and God knows what all. Olives, for God’s sake. Olive oil. Anchovies. Gin. Chocolate!!

It’s enough to make you want to turn a firehose on these people. How about a less absolutist response? How about resolving to eat more locally instead of all locally? To eat more consciously? More reverently, even. To use less. Live more lightly.

It seems overwhelming, like it could become a full-time job. I’d rather remain in the dark. How can we live at all except by remaining in the dark? And yet Jesus tells us to do otherwise, to recognize our connectedness.

Here’s another excuse: I could never get Lori and Danny to convert. And: how could we give up the convenience? As it is we can hardly get meals on the table. And how could we afford it? This is what I mean by elitist. Slow food.

Doing something is better than doing nothing, right? What could be done? Buying more produce and meat from local farmers. Patronizing Stone Soup, the farmers’ markets. Participating in the vegetable co-op. Using re-usable grocery bags. Eating less meat. Eating less processed food. Being less wasteful. It would take more time, money, and effort. It would mean a commitment, and giving up convenience.

And why? Because it’s healthier? Yes. To eat better? Yes. But more because it uses fewer resources, and is more humane. To feel better about ourselves? Salve conscience?

Poor people “don’t have the luxury” of feeling guilty over how the chicken they’re eating was treated. This is true. But it also may be true that the reason they don’t have the luxury is that we do, and we exercise it ever-increasingly.

If I’m just doing this to feel better standing next to my eco-friendly, evolved, mature friends, it’s not going to work. (This is also a bad reason to try to write poetry.)

No nukes

It has been at least six months since our microwave oven conked out. Remarkable how little we’ve missed it. Left-overs heat just fine in a pan on the stove—just add a little water—and “nuked” coffee tastes of metal anyway. The only other thing we used it for, besides occasional defrosting, was popcorn. That, too, is better done in a pot: It comes out less dry and airy, and more flavorsome, and you aren’t a hostage to additives.

Lola’s mom wanted to buy us a new one. She couldn’t survive without hers, and our deprivation seems unimaginable to her. My folks, too, are in the habit of using their “micro,” along with their George Foreman grill. They use it most to heat water for tea, which may be the perfect example of how modern gadgets can take the soul out of cookery. What could be more satisfying, more peacefully engaging, than the simple ritual of preparing tea, or coffee, the old-fashioned way?

Sunday Dinner

I roasted a chicken, using a Mark Bittman recipe I cut from the Times maybe ten years ago. It’s a bare-bones approach (he is "The Minimalist," after all) that hinges on two things: high heat (450F) and preheating the roasting vessel to “jump-start” the cooking of the dark meat, so that everything comes out even. You simply put a cast iron skillet in the oven, turn it on, and salt and pepper the bird. When oven and pan are hot, you plop in the chicken, breast side up, and shove the pan back in the oven. What could be easier? Bittman suggests thirty minutes for a three-pound bird. Mine was four and a half, so I set the timer for 45 minutes, to be sure of doneness. I can’t stomach chicken pink at the bone.

Alas, this time Bittman’s minimalism turned out to be a bit excessive. Before twenty minutes passed L noticed smoke seeping from the oven. I opened the door and choked on a cloud. The bird’s skin was already brown, and the bottom of the pan was swimming in grease, which popped and spattered everywhere. I turned the oven fan on high and opened the kitchen window, but every time I cracked the oven door another billow of smoke rushed to the ceiling. I covered the pan loosely with foil, thinking that might catch the spattering and prevent burning grease, to no avail. Out of tricks, and hungry, I just hunkered down and willed the oven timer to get to zero, alternately cursing Bittman’s cavalier omission ("Warning: Burning grease!") and praying that I wouldn’t set off the smoke detector. In the middle of this ordeal I dimly remembered trying this recipe once before, probably ten years ago—and why I had never tried it again. Thus was reinforced the utility of making notes on recipes, and also that of throwing flawed recipes away.

In the end the bird turned out fine, better than fine even: 45 minutes produced breast meat so moist and juicy I was afraid it wasn’t done, though it had easily run the meat thermometer to 165F. L claimed it was the best chicken she’d ever had. The dark meat was done well, too. Still, despite the results at table, I don’t think I’ll try this recipe again--not indoors, or at least not in winter. My eyes are still smarting from the smoke.

P.S. It’s not often that my having made polenta ranks as an afterthought, but yeah, I made that too. Stirred it for a good 45 minutes while watching the chicken, not constantly, but every couple of minutes over a very low heat. When it was finished I swirled in some Parmesan cheese. It was thick, creamy, and rib-sticking good, nothing like the wretched pre-made stuff that comes in tubes, or the instant variety you buy in a box. The gulf between these impostors and the real thing is akin to that between instant coffee and good French pressed.

I also made some hot oil: red pepper flakes simmered briefly in olive oil which is then allowed to cool, so that the pepper infuses. My father remembers his grandfather keeping a bowl of this simple dressing on the table always, and drizzling it on everything. It added zip to the polenta, caro nonno!